73-87 | Air Ride Guide

73-87 | Air Ride Guide

UNDER CONSTRUCTION - 7.30.26

This guide will help you plan your C10 build and purchase the needed parts. Follow each step, watch the linked video, and purchase the linked parts!

If you have any questions, post a comment below or message me on Instagram, Facebook, text 615-578-4540, or email me thesimplec10@gmail.com.  

Start off by watching the new "Air Ride Guide" Youtube video that will explain all the steps below and answer some of the questions you may have!

Air Ride Shopping List

Here's a shopping list of parts you'll need to bag your truck! If you're on a budget, no worries! I purposely numbered these in the way I would order them. Simply click each item and purchase on my website. Each sale helps support more content!

Budget Shopping List - This shopping list will get you as close to laying frame as you can on a stock front crossmember. In order to fully "lay frame" you will need to purchase an additional dropmember in the front to gain the extra couple inches. You can follow the budget shopping list, then later on purchase a GMSS Air Ride Crossmember if you already have Porterbuilt Tubular Control Arms. If the plan is to go with a crossmember later on, then I would encourage you to go ahead and get the control arms. Although cupped lowers may work with the crossmember, we highly recommend having forward and narrow arms with the crossmember to gain firewall and fender clearance.

1. Simple.C10 Air Ride Kit
2. Velaworks Front Slam Kit or Stage 3 Front Bundle
3. 2.5" Drop Spindles
4. Front 3" Drop Shocks or Front Shock Relocation
5. Porterbuilt Hood Hinges or Switch Suspension Hood Hinges
6. Simple Back Half Kit
7. Rear Shock Relocation Kit
8. Transmission Crossmember
9. Inner Fender Tubs + Firewall Panels

Laying Frame Shopping List - This shopping list will include everything needed to lay frame. The main difference in this kit and the budget kit is the addition of a Dropmember. You need this in order to frop your front crossmember an additional 2 inches. You can also achieve this by Zing the frame of Pancaking the crossmember, but a dropmember is the easiest bolt in solution that has less problems to run into. 

1. Simple.C10 Air Ride Kit
2. Porterbuilt Dropmember or GMSS Fab Crossmember + PB Control Arms
3. 2.5" Drop Spindles
4. Porterbuilt Hood Hinges or Switch Suspension Hood Hinges
6. Porterbuilt Back Half Kit or Simple Back Half Kit
7. Transmission Crossmember
8. Inner Fender Tubs + Firewall Panels

Step 1: Planning Your Build and Air Ride Kit

Planning your build and purchasing your air ride kit is your first step! Watch "Airride 101" on Youtube to help you plan your build! On all my builds, I use the "Simple.C10 Kit".  We teamed up to make baggin' a C10 easy! This kit includes the tank, compressors, and Airlift 3P or ALP4 System, which I highly recommend! 

Step 2: Cupping Your Control Arms, Upper Bag Bracket

On my builds, I like to start with the front suspension. I will remove the drum brakes, stock spindle, springs, shocks, and lower control arms. Once the control arms are removed, install the Velaworks Front DIY Slam Kit. This kit includes the upper bag bracket and the weld-in cup that is installed on your lower control arm. You install this cup to be able to mount the bag directly to the bottom of the control arm to allow maximum drop with stock control arms. Watch the "Velaworks DIY Slam Kit Video" for a step-by-step guide. If you're not able to weld in a lower control arm pocket, another product that I offer that achieves the same goal is "Porterbuilt Tubular Control Arms". They allow you to mount the bag directly to the bottom of the control arm, giving you maximum drop. They also come with an option to have them forward and narrowed 1 inch. This gives you more fender and firewall clearance. Now that I have more experience bagging these trucks, I always use "Porterbuilt Tubular Control Arms". I think they are one of the best upgrades you can make to the front of your truck. Although they are more expensive, the benefits outweigh the cost. Just make sure to add in the front shock relocation kit that is required with the arms. Th best option is my "Front Bundle Stage 3" which is the control arms, upper bag bracket, shock relocation, and tie rod adjuster. Everything you need for the front.  Just as a reminder, the larger diameter 2600 or SS7 bag installs up front.



Step 3: Drop Spindles, Drop Shocks

The next step is purchasing drop spindles. No matter what configuration you have on the front, it will require drop spindles to get all the way down. The last step is to install CPP 3" Drop Shocks. These shocks work in the factory position and are perfect for this setup! Other drop shocks may bottom out before the bag is completely deflated because they are designed to be used with shock extenders. Watch the "Disc Brake and Drop Spindle Installation Video" for more details!

Step 4: Front Fender Modification

For you to maximize your drop in the front, you will need to remove and cut out your factory inner fenders. 


Step 5: Rear Back Half (notch, bridge, four link)

 

Step 6: Installing Rear Bags


Step 7: Rear Shock Relocation

Step 7: Watts Link

Since air ride allows us to adjust our suspension height on the fly, it's vital that our rear end remains centered at all times. Although a traditional pan-hard bar can be built to work correctly, like in this video, a watts link provides us with a system that keeps everything centered through full suspension travel. I partnered with Alex V Metalworks to create a "Simple.C10 Watts Link"  that is for 63-72 C10s with this airride setup. This watts link requires minimal welding! It's a simple design that works great. This was my first time installing a watts link and it only took about 3 hours total. Check out the "Watts Link Installation Video" for a step-by-step guide.
 


Step 9: Rear Shocks


Step 10: Air Management 

If you have made it this far, you're almost there! It's time to connect the electrical and air lines for your Airlift 3P System. My suggestion is to use your Airlift 3P Manual as a guide to know where each line goes and watch the videos I have linked. It's actually pretty simple. Hook up the compressor hot/ground, run both power/ground to battery, one line connects into the manifold, and the blue wire goes to an ignition, then you plug in your airlines. The hardest part is deciding how you want to run your wires and airline to make it clean. I like to use these 5/8 electrical clamps to keep things organized. I use the random factory holes in the frame to bolt these to, or you can drill holes where needed. In addition to the video linked below, check out my "Airline Organization" video. 

Step 11: Raised Bed Floor



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