This guide will help you plan your C10 build and purchase the needed parts. Follow each step, watch the linked video, and purchase the linked parts!
If you have any questions, post a comment below or message me on Instagram, Facebook, or email me thesimplec10@gmail.com.
Start off by watching the new "Air Ride Guide" Youtube video that will explain all the steps below and answer some of the questions you may have!
Air Ride Shopping List
Here's a shopping list of parts you'll need to bag your truck! If you're on a budget, no worries! I purposely numbered these in the way I would order them. Simply click each item and purchase on my website. Each sale helps support more content!
Planning your build and purchasing your air ride kit is your first step! Watch "Airride 101" on Youtube to help you plan your build! On all my builds, I use the "Simple.C10 Kit" from Airslamit. We teamed up to make baggin' a C10 easy! This kit includes the tank, compressors, and Airlift 3P System, which I highly recommend!
Step 2: Cupping Your Control Arms, Upper Bag Bracket
On my builds, I like to start with the front suspension. I will remove the drum brakes, stock spindle, springs, shocks, and lower control arms. Once the control arms are removed, install the Velaworks Front DIY Slam Kit. This kit includes the upper bag bracket and the weld-in cup that is installed on your lower control arm. You install this cup to be able to mount the bag directly to the bottom of the control arm to allow maximum drop with stock control arms. Watch the "Velaworks DIY Slam Kit Video" for a step-by-step guide. If you're not able to weld in a lower control arm pocket, another product that I offer that achieves the same goal is "Choppin Block Control Arms". They allow you to mount the bag directly to the bottom of the control arm, giving you maximum drop. They also come with an option to have them forward and narrowed 1 inch. This gives you more fender and firewall clearance. If you're running 5 inch or more backspacing on your wheels, choose "factory geometry". The narrowed control arms only work with 4.5 inch backspacing or less. You can watch the video below for more information. Just as a reminder, the larger diameter 2600 bag installs up front.
Step 3: Disc Brakes, Drop Spindles, Drop Shocks
The next step is purchasing the 2.5" Drop Spindle and Disc Brake Conversion Kit. This kit comes with new disc brakes, and 2.5" drop spindles. I've used this kit multiple times and its a quick and easy install. The balljoints and tie-rods are different for each year C10 so it's very important to get a kit that includes all the correct parts. There's nothing more frustrating then getting started on a project and have the wrong parts! This kit uses the 63-70 C10 balljoints. The last step is to install CPP 3" Drop Shocks. These shocks work in the factory position and are perfect for this setup! Other drop shocks may bottom out before the bag is completely deflated because they are designed to be used with shock extenders. Watch the "Disc Brake and Drop Spindle Installation Video" for more details!
Step 4: Front Fender Modification
For you to maximize your drop in the front, you will need to cut out your factory inner fenders. If the sound of that stresses you out, don't worry, I got you! I have a template you can purchase called "Simple.Guides" that will allow you to know exactly where to cut. When cutting your inner fenders, you do lose your factory hood hinges so you have a few options. Option 1 is to just use a hood prop and have no hinges. ( I've done this before but its nice to open your hood and not need a prop.) Option 2 is to use the diy SIMPLE.SHOCK that can be installed in 30 minutes. These shocks work great with factory hinges and look awesome paired with the GMSS Inner Fender Covers. Option 3 is to buy some " Porterbuilt or Switch Suspension Hood Hinges.". You will need these if you plan to run the full GMSS Inner Fender Tubs.
Step 5: Trailing Arm Crossmember
When bagging a C10, the driveshaft angle will change and eventually hit the upper part of the factory trailing arm. There are a few ways to fix this issue. You can notch the top of the trailing arms by cutting out a section and welding in a loop to the top. This works well but doesn't look as nice as an aftermarket trailing arm that has the loop in it already. If you want to go aftermarket, the one I recommend is the Tinworks Fabrication Trailing Arms Crossmember. This crossmember looks awesome and is made very well! It features adjustable squat brackets and has cutouts for exhaust. If you want to see exactly the installation process, check out the Tinworks Trailing Arm Crossmember Video. Another great part to combine with the crossmember is theTinworks Trailing Arms! The tubular design with build in 1 inch drop works great!
Step 6: Step Notch and Blocks
Now the fun starts! Go ahead and order the Velaworks Rear DIY Slam Kit and the Rear Step Notch. The rear kit will come with a 4.5 drop block that you can cut down to whatever size you need it. If you're running 22's then leave it at 4.5, if you're running 20s, cut it down to 3.5 inches. If you are running smaller wheels and do not cut them down to size, you will run into whats called "scrub issues" where the U bolt hangs lower than the wheel and would drag the ground if you had a flat. The Velaworks Step Notch is a universal notch made for 63-72 C10s. It's a great design and is installed easily. Watch the "Velaworks Rear Notch Installation Video" to see how you can do it yourself! After installing the step notch you need to connect them together to enforce the frame. An easy way to do this is the Simple.Bridge that not only makes your frame stiffer, it allows movement for your watts link to travel without coming in contact with the bars.
Step 7: Installing Rear Bags
To achieve the maximum drop in the rear, you need to mount the upper bag directly to the frame. This has been one of the most difficult parts of baggin the back because you have to position the bag at a specific angle to be able to install hardware and your air fitting. To make this easy, I created the "Rear Bag Template"! All you have to do is cut out the template and it will help you drill your three holes perfectly! This was a game changer on my last build and I;m excited for everyone to use it. In the Simple.C10 Air Ride Kit, you get 2-2600 bags and 2-2500 bags. The smaller 2500 bags install on the rear of the truck. The template is made for 2500 bags and will not work with 2600 bags. I plan to update the template later to have both bag options.
Step 8: Watts Link
Since air ride allows us to adjust our suspension height on the fly, it's vital that our rear end remains centered at all times. Although a traditional pan-hard bar can be built to work correctly, like in this video, a watts link provides us with a system that keeps everything centered through full suspension travel. I partnered with Alex V Metalworks to create a "Simple.C10 Watts Link" that is for 63-72 C10s with this airride setup. This watts link requires minimal welding! It's a simple design that works great. This was my first time installing a watts link and it only took about 3 hours total. Check out the "Watts Link Installation Video" for a step-by-step guide.
Step 9: Rear Shocks
Now it's time to install your rear shocks. On my builds, I will take the factory lower shock bracket and swap the drivers side and passenger side bracket. This will locate the bottom shock mount on the outside of the frame on both sides. From there you bolt in you shock, air out your truck, compress the shock all the way down, and make a mark where your upper bracket will be bolted or welded in. You do not want to use drop shocks for the rear of these trucks. They will limit your lift as you air up. I prefer to get the longest shock possible that will compress enough to mount to the side of the notch. I use this upper shock bracket on all my builds. Also, this is the rear shock that has worked the best. Another option that I used on Lucky is the "Tinworks Rear Shock Relocation" available on my website.
Step 10: Air Management
If you have made it this far, you're almost there! It's time to connect the electrical and air lines for your Airlift 3P System. My suggestion is to use your Airlift 3P Manual as a guide to know where each line goes and watch the videos I have linked. It's actually pretty simple. Hook up the compressor hot/ground, run both power/ground to battery, one line connects into the manifold, and the blue wire goes to an ignition, then you plug in your airlines. The hardest part is deciding how you want to run your wires and airline to make it clean. I like to use these 5/8 electrical clamps to keep things organized. I use the random factory holes in the frame to bolt these to, or you can drill holes where needed. In addition to the video linked below, check out my "Airline Organization" video.
Step 11: Raised Bed Floor
The last step is to hide all your rear air ride components by raising your bed floor. I've seen some amazing raised bed floors at car shows that have tilt and all kinds of bells and whistles. For this design, I kept it simple. I purchased some 2x1 steel, 1 1/2 flat bar, 1x10 premium pine, 80 riv nuts, a riv nut tool, and 40 connector bolts! I plan to write out a step-by-step blog soon about the raised bed floor to go more in depth. For now, just watch the linked video below. If you rather weld in the sides, go for it!
I looking to put air ride on my 1968 gmc. I already have drop spindles and disc breaks. What kid do you recommend? I have leaf springs in the rear. I’m really looking for a better ride.
How much is for a whole kit bags and all?
What pressure are you running in your front and rear air bags
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3 comments
I looking to put air ride on my 1968 gmc. I already have drop spindles and disc breaks. What kid do you recommend? I have leaf springs in the rear. I’m really looking for a better ride.
How much is for a whole kit bags and all?
What pressure are you running in your front and rear air bags